Tangier, a dazzlingly white Moroccan city and favorite retreat of artists, intellectuals and other adventurers: sheltered behind the medieval ramparts of the old town, lose yourself in the delightful maze of the Medina’s bustling, colorful, winding, steep lanes, lined with houses whose carved doors are whitewashed or painted blue. Then, a heavenly surprise: the surrounding botanical gardens release intoxicating, joyful scents of citrusy, tangy neroli (bitter orange blossom), of sweeter, warmer, comforting orange blossom, and of maté with its herbal notes.